Day 4 – Pachhar Lauchani to Bugwabasa (3rd Sept)

This was the brightest morning of all. The sharp sun rejuvenated our tired souls and lifted the gloom around. Like Srini said, when the Sun showed up, we showed him our wet shoes and clothes in return! Bhupal and team provided us warm water to wash, drink, and carry for the day’s trek. We were warned of how the air would be thinner, the winds stronger, and the terrain rocky, up on the route to Bugwabasa. So off we set, prepared for a very difficult climb. It was difficult alrite, but with the usual water and choc breaks, small and steady steps, we made it to Kaluvinayak without any hurdles. The bugiyals had made way for a rocky terrain, peppered with tufts of grass, shrubs, and flowers, especially the Brahma Kamals.

Ramesh, Sridevi, Vikrant, gained pace and reached ahead of us all – remember very well how one could spot Ramesh standing high and further up, trying to wait for us slower souls. Then off he would hop again. Same with Benny, except that he would stop for a fag. These two are awesome trekkers!

Kaluvinayak was mesmerising. Up at 14,000 ft, it is a small rock temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha. That Lord Ganesha gives us strength to carry projects is true. But in the middle of the heights, the sight of the idol, the flowers strewn around the idol, esp one Bramha kamal, and the other marks of worship like bells, inifused a lot of strength in me. No wonder that you need signs of belief and worship to sustain you through the ordeals of mountaineerinig.

As forewarned, the winds got stronger and chillier, it drizzled a little - we had to make sure we made it to the campsite by the estimated time. With a quick prayer and snack, we set off for Bugwabasa. The rest of the trek was easy. Only glitch, it was raining and we were getting highly irritable. At this point, most of us were conscious of being photographed. We looked so dishevelled! En route, we met a Bengali group camping on a rocky terrain, 15 minutes from our campsite. We had company up there!

The Bugwabasa campsite was incredible. Flanked by snow-capped mountains at the eye level, with beds of rocks and Brahma Kamals around, it was an awesome place to camp at. As the team trickled (pun intended) into the camp, one after the other, the rain too poured continuously. There was hail too. We were worried about Deepika and team as they were the last lot. They came in drenched. Once we all settled in the tents, the porters scuttled in the rain to serve us lunch. We would shiver at the thought of opening the tent covers, and there they were standing outside in the rain to serve us! What pampering! God bless them all.

Post-lunch, the camp was quiet. After the gruelling climb to Kaluvinayak and the wet trek to Bugwabasa, not a single voice could be heard. For a while, the porters sang local songs in their tent. We had strict instructions not to sleep after a trek or anytime in the day. So to fend off sleep, Ritu and I talked along. Just when we were comfortably snuggled in our sleeping bags and would have allowed Morpheus to overpower us, we heard Raghu outside our tent, waiting to come in.  He was bored he said and had no one to talk to, his tent mate was resting. And as Deepika was in another tent, we had some place in our tent (and heart too, Ritu would say). The next couple of hours were spent hearing Raghu’s dilemmas in life and getting to know him better. Another matter though that I would have appreciated if he let me listen quietly and gather my strength. I felt that talking also took away energy just like any movement, like opening the tent, or moving the trek bag around in the tent, made one gasp for breath. Abhinav, Mothay, Ananth were uncharacteristically quiet in a neighbouring tent.

In the evening, came out of the tent for a while. The view was splendid to say the least. The sky had cleared up a little and we could see patches of dark clouds bid the sun down. Gazing at the mountains from close quarters increased the awe. They spoke of how some things stand in eternity while others pass by.  

Grabbed some chai and headed back into the tent. At dinner, the plan was reiterated. We had to leave the camp at 5 AM the next day and head for the Roopkund lake. And come back in 4-5 hours because we had a long descent to Bedni the same day. In total, it would be a trek of 10-12 hours. Start early, come back early, and start the descent eartly. If in the middle of the Roopkund trail, one felt sick or not upto it, one would immediately come down. People who did not want to attempt Roopkund at all could stay back at Bugwabasa.

By late nite, the temperature dropped to almost 0 degree celsius. To keep us from freezing, we were handed inner woollen covers for the sleeping bags. Out came the thermals too. The only trouble was in heading out from the tent to the loo tent. How the tent madly lashed in the wind! Before sleeping, Ritu and I spoke about what all was discussed during dinner. We had come so far and we could do it. And if we felt otherwise, we would come down. My tummy still gave me trouble and I was hoping I that if I slept well, I could make it to the summit. Well, that did not happen.